The third brake light circuit on your 1997 Chevy 3500 uses the CHMSL circuit (center high mount stop lamp). If it is working then the circuit is fine but if you are having dimming problems then it is likely a poor ground connection.
Ground problems normally show up when there is more draw on a system such as when you have the running lights on and then use another function like a turn signal or brake light. Make sure the grounds are attached to clean and corrosion free bare metal surfaces. view full answer...
The E1 error code on the Reliance brake controller indicates that a trailer is not connected. If the trailer IS connected and you get the E1 code, a probable cause is a dirty trailer connector. Check the trailer connector on the trailer and on the vehicle. Clean out any dirt or corrosion. Corrosion can build up behind the connectors where the wires attach as well.
However, the fact that it shows power without braking and then shows less with the override applied indicates that the controller... view full answer...
With the 5 way on your truck in non-standard colors and the 4 way on your trailer also with odd colors, you will need to use a circuit tester like # PTW2993 to determine function. I recommend testing your truck for functions first when disconnected from trailer and then using a battery to test your trailer individually as well. If all checks out, clean your trailer connections and test together. If the issue is on the trailer, first check your ground wire for a clean connection that... view full answer...
With a total of 4 brake assemblies, the brake controller power wire will need to be connected to at least a 20 amp circuit breaker and then to the battery. If it is on a lower capacity breaker or fused power source then the draw of the magnets could be too great and cause the brakes not to work. When connected directly to the battery the brakes can draw as much amperage as the battery is rated for.
If there is any sort of short, corrosion, a bare wire touching metal somewhere, that is... view full answer...
This sounds like a weak ground, corroded connector, or both. Make sure that the ground on the 7-Way you installed is attached to a clean and corrosion free bare metal surface. A weak ground could cause this issue. Ground problems normally show up when there is more load on the system like when the running lights are on and you step on the brake. Also make sure the 4-way that you installed is properly grounded.
A corroded connector can cause all sorts of weird things to occur as well so... view full answer...
It sounds like there is something miswired, otherwise the controller has an internal problem.
Testing the brake controller is fairly easy. Sever the blue brake output wire near the brake controller leaving enough room to reconnect it and then apply the manual slide. Using a circuit tester like part # PTW2993, you should get output to the controller side of the wire you severed. If the manual slide activates the trailer brake output wire properly, try the brake pedal. If the brake pedal... view full answer...
Essentially your hazard lights are telling your brake controller that the brakes are being engaged every time the tail light blink because the hazards are on the same circuit as the brake lights. When the hazards flash, the brake controller recognizes that and sends the signal out on the brake light circuit.
To prevent your brake controller from sending the signal to engage your brakes when your hazard lights are on you need a Pulse Preventer # 5501. view full answer...
It sounds like you may have a short in the Junction Box # 38656 and the Breakaway Battery # 3802308. This is the only way I see power getting to the led light on your passenger fender without having it connected to anything. You will want to make sure this is the only battery on the trailer that would have power to power objects to determine if it was wired incorrectly. view full answer...
Sounds like you may need to revisit all of the connections of your brake controller. The blue wire attaches to the circuit that run all the way back to the brake output circuit on the 7-way. So from brake controller all the way to the 7-way.
The red wire needs to attach to a circuit that only sees voltage when the brake are applied. So 12 volts when brakes are on and none when released.
The black wire needs to go to a 12 volt power circuit that runs to the positive side of the battery.... view full answer...
When a brake controller shows a connection and there isn't a trailer connected the problem is almost always corrosion on the trailer connector. What happens is the corrosion confuses the controller into thinking a trailer is connected it shows the .c.
Try cleaning the pins of the 7-way on your truck and the issue should resolve. view full answer...
It sounds like either the white ground wire is not properly connected or is not connected to the best ground location or there is a short to the blue wire.
First, make sure you have the white ground wire attached to the negative battery terminal. This is the best ground location for a brake controller. No other ground locations will really work as well.
To test the # 5504 controller, in the truck cab you will need to sever the blue wire several inches from the back of the controller.... view full answer...
If the # 90195 brake controller works with the manual override but does not work when pressing the brake pedal, that indicates a problem with the red wire from the brake controller.
The red brake wire is designed to attach to the cold side of the brake switch located at the top of the brake pedal under the dash. You want it connected to the side of the switch that only shows power when the brake pedal is pressed. You can use a circuit tester like part # PTW2993 to test the wire.
If the... view full answer...
My recommendation is to run new wiring to solve the problems you are experiencing. It is difficult to say what that wiring is doing in your truck and where the problem lies. Installation of the Wiring Kit for 2, 4, 6, and 8 Brake Electric Trailer Brake Controllers # 5506 would allow you to bypass all of that and connect directly to your battery.
This will give you a new 12V wire as well as a new brake output wire. It also comes with the necessary circuit breakers and, butt connectors,... view full answer...
No, you should not have current on the brake controllers ground wire when the brakes are applied and yes it should create a short circuit. It sounds to me as if you have a problem inside the brake controller. Brake controllers have no user serviceable parts inside them so the best action would be to replace the controller.
I would recommend the Tekonsha PRODIGY P3 Brake Controller - Proportional, item # 90195. This brake controller is easy to set up and is one of our best selling controllers... view full answer...
I would start by using a circuit tester, item # PTW2993, to check the center trailer connection on the truck. If you have constant 12-volt power on this circuit, then you are correct that it could be used to charge the battery on your trailers and the dump trailer.
With the reverse lights coming on when you hook up the trailer with the battery connection from the dump trailer connected to the center connection, I believe that you may find that the center pole on your trucks 7-way connector... view full answer...
On many vehicles there is more than one wire at the brake switch that can have power when the brake pedal is pressed. If the wire you are using now also has power with the head lights or turn signals on, then it is not the correct wire. Also, if you are testing the controller while sitting still then it may not show any power when you press on the brakes. Many proportional brake controllers are like this and will only work with the brake pedal if the controller senses movement, specifically... view full answer...
No, you should not have current on the brake controllers ground wire when the brakes are applied and yes it should create a short circuit. It sounds to me as if you have a bad ground or a problem inside the brake controller. Brake controllers have no user serviceable parts inside them so the best action would be to replace the controller. I would recommend the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Brake Controller part # 90885. This brake controller is easy to set up and is our best selling controller with... view full answer...
The Curt Venturer Trailer Brake Controller # C74VV could be faulty. To find out for sure you can bench test the controller as per the instructions. I have included those below for you to reference.
Before removing it for a bench test I suggest checking the red wire that runs to the brake switch. This should only show 12v power when the brake pedal is pressed. If the brake switch is faulty this would cause the brake controller to believe it needs to send power to the blue brake wire.
To... view full answer...
The brake controller wiring should not have any output coming on the red wire. I recommend checking that with a circuit tester like # PTW2993. If there is power output on that red wire, then the internal components are bad and the controller will need replaced. If there is power input to the controller on the red wire, then you are tapped into the hot side of the switch which has constant power and not the cold side of the switch which should only sent power to that red wire when the... view full answer...
This sounds like a bad connection along the red wire on the brake controller. The red wire provides the brake controller with the signal that you have applied the vehicle brakes. If this connection is not available, the brake controller will not engage the trailer brakes when you step on the brake pedal. Since the manual override lever is a separate system within the brake controller, it can still apply the trailer brakes. This is what leads me to believe the trouble is with the red wire.
What... view full answer...
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